Monitoring visit

The week after the APR trek #3 I went back up country, all the way to Basse again. This time it was for a monitoring visit, escorting the directors of the Growth and Competitiveness Project so that they could check to see if progress is taking place in the way that we have been documenting in our reports. The GCP is my main project, and separate from the Annual Partnership Reviews, but we managed to combine the monitoring visit with an APR in the interest of saving time and money. I have been extremely busy over the last few weeks! 

We travelled on Tuesday afternoon and called in at Brikama to see Abdoulie's wife. After a few mouthfuls of churra gerte with sour milk (a kind of peanut rice pudding, which we had with a kind of yoghurt on top) we were on our way. We stopped in Soma and bought some meat and bread (which was really delicious) and got up to Basse at about 8 or 9pm. After a quick meeting with the GCP folk we went to bed, and woke up bright and early for our first day of monitoring. 

We called in at a roadside cafe and had a breakfast of fried luncheon, salad, cold chips and bread (just what an English girl wants at 8am!) and then crossed the river over to the WASDA compound. 

Carefully balanced motorbikes

WASDA meeting

After a meeting there we moved about 25km up the road, further into the north bank, and visited the second groundnut growers association that WASDA have set up as part of this project. The meeting was all in Mandinka and Fula, and although I tried to follow as best I could, most of it was lost on me. Of course, a meeting isn't a meeting without a bit of singing and dancing, and before the end the women were playing drums, and attendees were singing and dancing in the centre of the room! 

Wuli Groundnut Growers Association

Impromptu singing and dancing

My 'what on earth is going on' face

Once finished, we jumped back in the car (around 1.30pm) to drive to Kaur where our next meeting was scheduled. We were driving the north bank road - a place I had never been, and a place it seems not many people ever go. It is really in the middle of nowhere and the road is unmade, a dust bowl of dry arid land, with a few villages scattered here and there. The isolation must be incredible... we bumped down the road for 2.5 hrs (94km!) and the only traffic we saw coming in the other direction was one car, one bus, one lorry and one motorbike. The children, who normally shout 'toubab' as soon as they see me could just about manage to stare open mouthed in surprise, and I came to realise they were as much startled by the pickup truck as they were by the toubab. It was sooooo quiet! And the poverty very stark. It must be an incredibly hard life in that part of the country. 

Our road... for 94km. And this was a smooth part. 

Project director gives out some 'minty'

And soon draws a crowd

Needless to say, after 2.5hrs of bumping down a dirt track we were pretty hot and dusty by the time we reached Kaur (late as the drive had been longer than anyone anticipated). But we held a short meeting with the project group (in Wolof and Mandinka) and then pushed on to Farafenni to spend the night. 

Meeting under the mango tree

AVISU - Agency for Village Support 

We reached there around 7pm and went for dinner at around 8pm, at this point having eaten nothing since the spam and bread in the morning, and my meat and bread at lunch time the day before. We found a roadside food vendor and bought... some meat and bread. 

Our guest house in Farafenni. Looks lovely but I suspect
this is where I was bitten.

The next morning we travelled to Njawara and had out third partner meeting at the Njawara Agricultural Training Centre. This meeting was in Wolof, so while not being exactly fluent I at least managed to get more of the gist than the Mandinka meetings. Although my Mandinka greetings are getting better as a result of my up-country ventures!

Once done at NATC (this time the meeting ended with a nice stroll around the gardens rather than singing and dancing) Abdoulie and I left Ba Sarjo to sleep at Njawara while we bundled off to sleep at his village. I have been there before, for lunch, but it was nice to spend a bit more time there and relax. I was treated to a delicious domoda, we greeted a few people and made some house calls, Abdoulie and I did some work and then I had an early night, fully exhausted and devoid of all language skills, barely managing to mumble my greetings in any language by this point.  

In the morning we were up early to drive back to Kerewan to do an APR with the Kerewan Area Council (after more churra gerte with sour milk). We had tried to organise a 9.30 start but of course the meeting started around 11.30, after breakfast and greetings and me having a little chat with someone in French (too many languages!). The APR went well, but throughout the session I realised I was coming out in more and more raised bumpy welts. I knew that the mosquitoes had been virtually non existent, but I had slept for three nights in a row without a bed net so I thought that something must have got me...

We finished at about 4.30pm and started the long drive home, calling in at different villages to greet people and drop people off along the way. By the time I reached my house it was 10.30pm and I was feeling itchy and irritable... only to discover the next morning that the bites were bed bug bites, and I was covered in head to toe. Literally. Down my earlobes, the ends of my toes, all over my hands, back, arms, legs - everywhere. A delightful end to what was actually quite an interesting, if not exhausting trip! 

I rested over the weekend and then on the Monday we had the final monitoring meeting at NAWFA here in the Kombos. The results of the visit will tie in with a mid-term review that we are currently writing, which should help us make sure that the programme is on track. 

NaWFA - National Women's Farming Association

The obligatory group photo!