Tobaski

Yesterday Helen and I celebrated Tobaski with my language teacher, Awa, at her compound. It was really nice to spend the day with a huge family, and I am really happy that we had the opportunity to join in with festivities that I wouldn't usually have access to.

The day started early – Helen and I left home at 8 and arrived at the compound just before 9am so that we were there in time for morning prayers. We gracefully declined the invitation to join in with prayer, which was in the street rather than at the mosque due to the huge numbers of people attending. As well as not being Muslim and not knowing the prayer sequence, I don’t think I could have knelt in the sun for thirty minutes – even at 9am the temperature was high, and I was thankful to wait at the back in the shade. The atmosphere was electric and the colours were amazing – men, women and children filed past us in their best outfits… some of the young women were also in 7inch stiletto heels, which was admirable given that the footpaths are only sand and rock!

Once back at the compound we changed out of our Gambian outfits and helped peel potatoes and onions while the men slaughtered three rams. I have never witnessed an animal being slaughtered, and in a way I was quite glad to be viewing it through my camera, but I was impressed with the skill of the men and the boys of all ages who quickly killed the rams, hung them from the tree and skinned and butchered them with ease.

Warning – these pictures might not be enjoyed by everyone!

The liver was cooked first with onions, and then passed round – men first followed by women and children. It was tasty, and once the meat smells started to fill the air we soon became hungry for lunch. Lunch was spaghetti and potatoes with ram meat cooked with onions and mustard – unfortunately I don’t have pictures, but it was good – although rather hot to eat with your hands!  

Not a single part of the rams were wasted; throughout the day I witnessed Awa wrapping long tubes of stomach around pieces of meat - like wrapping cotton around a bobbin - which I was told they would later cook and eat, and we watched in fascination as the ram heads were first roasted whole on the fire, and then hacked into pieces by a young girl who was handy with an axe!

Sitting around, playing with the kids, and drinking attaya was really lovely, and the time passed surprisingly quickly considering we weren’t really doing anything but... well sitting around.

Drinking attaya for a mid afternoon 'boost'

Around 4pm the kids dressed into their outfits and went out collecting for ‘salebu’ – sweets or money that was then counted up and divided equally on their return.

Counting out salebu with Awa 

After walking around with Awa, calling on other compounds to greet her neighbours and pay our own salebu, Helen and I decided that it was time to get some palm wine and beer from our favourite Nigerian bar, Aso Rock. Here we met with Williams, John and Patrick before heading to check out the street party going on in Kairaba Avenue. It was a long but fascinating day, and I am really happy to have taken part in the all the activity.

Joining in with the street entertainment

I was nicknamed 'African Toubab' last night!