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| Back in November 2012 |
Friday, 21 March 2014
My fairy cake house
Recently my landlord moved back into the compound after 33 years in Los Angeles. He likes colour, and decided to give the house a makeover... I present my new pink and purple house, with before and after photos for comparison!
Thursday, 13 March 2014
18 month anniversary
Today marks my eighteen month anniversary as a VSO volunteer in The Gambia. I recently re-read my 'one year in' reflections post, and mostly things still stand... But paradoxically I feel both more settled and less settled than I did back in September.
More settled in that, naturally, as time passes I get even more used to my surroundings and feel even more at home. Showing my brother around at Christmas compounded my feelings of 'this is where I live and this is what I know'. I can make more comparisons; I've had two Christmases here, two dry seasons, seen more people leave and more people arrive, and have survived two annual partnership review exercises.
But as each month passes I get closer to the end of my placement, and now at 18 months I'm 75% through. If I left tomorrow my placement would be considered a successful placement - I would not be an 'early returner'. As I hit 18 months, it's officially time to start looking at what I'm going to do next. And that's why I now feel less settled. I've actually been keeping an eye out for jobs since Christmas, but now it's time to step up the search. By doing VSO I am fulfilling a life long ambition. I had been waiting years to build up the professional experience and find the right time to go. In the 9 months from application to placement it was all I thought about. So what do I do now!?
Well, one option could be to do another placement and try another country. But while I definitely won't rule out another stint as a VSO volunteer, I'm not sure that immediately re-volunteering is the right thing to do. Financially speaking, it's time to get back on the path of paid employment. And professionally speaking it's time for a new challenge. It's time to take my pre-VSO public sector experience and my current 'hands on' experience of international development and combine them. I want to push myself, learn more, do more and see more, so that if I do volunteer again I bring even more to my next placement.
It's not time for me to return to the UK and I still want to stay in the world of international development. But this time I want to be fully on the team. As a volunteer I find myself caught in the middle... part of the team for sure, but sometimes only when it suits them, and without the power to really make the decisions. I'm the advisor, the guider, the demonstrator, and now I want to be the do-er, the manager and the decider again.
So, my CV is up to date, and I'm scanning every monitoring and evaluation, programme management and partnership management vacancy I find to see if I fit the requirements. The Gambia has been very good to me, and very good for me, but now I'm circling and looking for a new place to land!
Monday, 10 March 2014
Food glorious food
This weekend I didn't have much energy for going out, and the weather was less than inspiring. So, I mostly stayed at home and to fill my time... cooked.
On Saturday morning I cycled to Gambia is Good, a vegetable shop that's a side-arm of an NGO called Concern Universal. It sells local fruit and veg, as well as other homemade products, and sometimes has some interesting imported veg too. It's nice to go there because a) you can get slightly different things compared to the markets and b) they weigh everything and give you a very fair clear price according to what you buy... at the market when you just buy a couple of this and half a kilo of that you never really know what you are being charged, and whether they are properly scaling down for the fact that you aren't buying a fixed quantity. But mostly it's just nice to find different products, I bought beetroot the other day for example, and they often have nice green beans.
After buying tomatoes, onions, potatoes, cabbage, beans and plantain, plus bananas, eggs and milk powder from various points along the way home, I arrived back at the house with everything I needed for the weekend.
First up was potato cakes, with a huge salad and homemade salad dressing.
I managed to save a few of the potato cakes and eat them later with tomato jam. I was given the tomato jam and I'm not too sure about it... it's a sweet as strawberry jam but smells (a lot) and tastes (a little) of tomatoes... odd.
Later on I used some of the left over potato cake mixture to make gnocchi which I added to a tomato, aubergine, green bean, and a bit of all-sorts, sauce.
After all this food I felt compelled to do some exercise on Sunday afternoon, but otherwise spent the day reading, watching films, and working on an M&E quick reference tool. A very pleasant weekend.
On Saturday morning I cycled to Gambia is Good, a vegetable shop that's a side-arm of an NGO called Concern Universal. It sells local fruit and veg, as well as other homemade products, and sometimes has some interesting imported veg too. It's nice to go there because a) you can get slightly different things compared to the markets and b) they weigh everything and give you a very fair clear price according to what you buy... at the market when you just buy a couple of this and half a kilo of that you never really know what you are being charged, and whether they are properly scaling down for the fact that you aren't buying a fixed quantity. But mostly it's just nice to find different products, I bought beetroot the other day for example, and they often have nice green beans.
After buying tomatoes, onions, potatoes, cabbage, beans and plantain, plus bananas, eggs and milk powder from various points along the way home, I arrived back at the house with everything I needed for the weekend.
First up was potato cakes, with a huge salad and homemade salad dressing.
Later on I used some of the left over potato cake mixture to make gnocchi which I added to a tomato, aubergine, green bean, and a bit of all-sorts, sauce.
Then on Sunday morning I made banana pancakes!
Sunday, 9 March 2014
Saying goodbye
It's that time of year again when everyone seems to be leaving. Last week saw the departure of Dr Joe, Martin and Helen - three people I spend quite a bit of time with. Just to add to the feeling of a mass exodus, Nicola headed back to the UK for a well deserved holiday. She hasn't been back since last December, and I know she will have a good time enjoying everything that she has missed (especially wine!). She has gone for nearly a month, so things have become very quiet for me!
Last Saturday Martin and Joe arranged a leaving dinner at Mama's, treating a large group of about 18 or so to dinner. We had spaghetti carbonara and creme caramel... heaven. Helen, who was unsure if she was extending or leaving right up until the last week when the decision was taken out of her hands by a lack of budget to keep her, had a fairly impromptu leaving party on Shrove Tuesday. 8 of us piled round to Helen's to eat pancakes and have a couple of gin and tonics, and in true VSO style, those who were staying raided through her stuff setting aside washing tubs and spare bottles of DEET to take home!
On Helen's final day (Friday) we went for a walk to the beach and then along the beach up to Soloman's for a final fish in foil in the sunshine. On the way home we called in to Aso Rock, but at a freeeeezing 23 degrees we were forced home by blue finger nails and goosebump legs! Needless to say, Helen was pretty concerned about how she would acclimatise back into English weather, but thankfully I have seen plenty of pictures of beautiful Spring days over the weekend.
Last Saturday Martin and Joe arranged a leaving dinner at Mama's, treating a large group of about 18 or so to dinner. We had spaghetti carbonara and creme caramel... heaven. Helen, who was unsure if she was extending or leaving right up until the last week when the decision was taken out of her hands by a lack of budget to keep her, had a fairly impromptu leaving party on Shrove Tuesday. 8 of us piled round to Helen's to eat pancakes and have a couple of gin and tonics, and in true VSO style, those who were staying raided through her stuff setting aside washing tubs and spare bottles of DEET to take home!
On Helen's final day (Friday) we went for a walk to the beach and then along the beach up to Soloman's for a final fish in foil in the sunshine. On the way home we called in to Aso Rock, but at a freeeeezing 23 degrees we were forced home by blue finger nails and goosebump legs! Needless to say, Helen was pretty concerned about how she would acclimatise back into English weather, but thankfully I have seen plenty of pictures of beautiful Spring days over the weekend.
Once I got home I realised there was no light and nothing to do... so I took my book, and a card from Helen, and went to my local for a drink. Helen, Joe and Martin will all be missed.
Friday, 21 February 2014
Final APR session held!
This is a very exciting landmark. We still have a lot of work to do... but the final APR workshop was held yesterday.
We have been working on the Annual Partnership Reviews since November and I am starting to get very tired of them. If you look at Abdoulie you can see that he is feeling the pain as well. The stress is written all over his face! But with some team work we are getting there, and yesterday all three of us - Abdoulie, Ebou and I - pulled together to get the final one done.
We went to the Department of Agriculture to see Martin (Munya should also have been there but was away on training). It was an interesting session; if you speak to Martin he feels frustrated that he hasn't been able to do more, and doesn't feel he has achieved as much as he could have done. It is fair to say that, unfortunately, the partners are just realising his potential as he is about to leave, which I think is a challenge for many volunteers. They work so hard to find a way in, break down barriers, reduce suspicion that they are there to take over everyone else's job or mess things up, while learning the culture and dynamics of the organisation, and just as they get it sorted it's time to leave. However, to hear the partners speak you realise that his work has had an impact, and even if it is just that catalyst for further work, and perhaps another VSO placement, he has achieved something and he will leave results behind. As an agricultural specialist I don't think he expected to leave a database as his legacy, but he has built one that will be expanded upon and tied into more central Monitoring and Evaluation Systems. And he will leave behind a manual on crop husbandry, pests and diseases, and best agricultural practice (complete with colour pictures) which will be used by farmers and extension workers, and used to train others in the future.
The session was quite a long one, and ended up with one of the longest 'closing ceremonies' one of my workshops has ever seen! As Martin goes in a few weeks everyone had a few words to say, and thanks to give, and 5/10/15 minute speeches were given, and then further recapped and summarised by the chair after each one had finished! But it's probably fitting that our final APR had such a formal end.
This year we conducted 22 sessions and I facilitated and co-facilitated 18 of them. Last year I did 25/25 - co-facilitating the later ones with Ebou who gained more confidence as the process went on. This year Ebou co-facilitated many of the sessions with me right from the beginning, and even facilitated some of them by himself.
So, now we just need to complete the write ups and meet the deadline... 28 February looms large.
We have been working on the Annual Partnership Reviews since November and I am starting to get very tired of them. If you look at Abdoulie you can see that he is feeling the pain as well. The stress is written all over his face! But with some team work we are getting there, and yesterday all three of us - Abdoulie, Ebou and I - pulled together to get the final one done.
We went to the Department of Agriculture to see Martin (Munya should also have been there but was away on training). It was an interesting session; if you speak to Martin he feels frustrated that he hasn't been able to do more, and doesn't feel he has achieved as much as he could have done. It is fair to say that, unfortunately, the partners are just realising his potential as he is about to leave, which I think is a challenge for many volunteers. They work so hard to find a way in, break down barriers, reduce suspicion that they are there to take over everyone else's job or mess things up, while learning the culture and dynamics of the organisation, and just as they get it sorted it's time to leave. However, to hear the partners speak you realise that his work has had an impact, and even if it is just that catalyst for further work, and perhaps another VSO placement, he has achieved something and he will leave results behind. As an agricultural specialist I don't think he expected to leave a database as his legacy, but he has built one that will be expanded upon and tied into more central Monitoring and Evaluation Systems. And he will leave behind a manual on crop husbandry, pests and diseases, and best agricultural practice (complete with colour pictures) which will be used by farmers and extension workers, and used to train others in the future.
The session was quite a long one, and ended up with one of the longest 'closing ceremonies' one of my workshops has ever seen! As Martin goes in a few weeks everyone had a few words to say, and thanks to give, and 5/10/15 minute speeches were given, and then further recapped and summarised by the chair after each one had finished! But it's probably fitting that our final APR had such a formal end.
This year we conducted 22 sessions and I facilitated and co-facilitated 18 of them. Last year I did 25/25 - co-facilitating the later ones with Ebou who gained more confidence as the process went on. This year Ebou co-facilitated many of the sessions with me right from the beginning, and even facilitated some of them by himself.
So, now we just need to complete the write ups and meet the deadline... 28 February looms large.
Creepy crawlies
The first specimen is an impressive praying mantis. I always love seeing these things as they look so unusual.
The second example of creepy crawlies is a more disgusting tale. The other day I went to soak some beans for dinner the next day. Now, I'm used to picking the odd weevil or two out of my beans or rice, washing everything thoroughly and well... just getting on with cooking them really. But this bag of beans was like no other. When I put it down on the counter it was almost moving along! I realised that there had been a weevil party going on, a weevil explosion, and my beans had boosted the weevil population considerably. I don't know how long I had been storing them for but they were now inedible (note to self, eat beans when you buy them). Unfortunately I had opened the bag so I had to find a way to dispose of them. I had no choice but to soak the beans, kill the evil weevils and then throw the beans away.
In the photo the small things (many many dark dots) are weevils. This is not an appetising photo. Needless to say, I did not eat beans for dinner the next day.
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| A stowaway |
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| He looked like a folded leaf |
The second example of creepy crawlies is a more disgusting tale. The other day I went to soak some beans for dinner the next day. Now, I'm used to picking the odd weevil or two out of my beans or rice, washing everything thoroughly and well... just getting on with cooking them really. But this bag of beans was like no other. When I put it down on the counter it was almost moving along! I realised that there had been a weevil party going on, a weevil explosion, and my beans had boosted the weevil population considerably. I don't know how long I had been storing them for but they were now inedible (note to self, eat beans when you buy them). Unfortunately I had opened the bag so I had to find a way to dispose of them. I had no choice but to soak the beans, kill the evil weevils and then throw the beans away.
In the photo the small things (many many dark dots) are weevils. This is not an appetising photo. Needless to say, I did not eat beans for dinner the next day.
Monday, 10 February 2014
Monitoring visit
The week after the APR trek #3 I went back up country, all the way to Basse again. This time it was for a monitoring visit, escorting the directors of the Growth and Competitiveness Project so that they could check to see if progress is taking place in the way that we have been documenting in our reports. The GCP is my main project, and separate from the Annual Partnership Reviews, but we managed to combine the monitoring visit with an APR in the interest of saving time and money. I have been extremely busy over the last few weeks!
We travelled on Tuesday afternoon and called in at Brikama to see Abdoulie's wife. After a few mouthfuls of churra gerte with sour milk (a kind of peanut rice pudding, which we had with a kind of yoghurt on top) we were on our way. We stopped in Soma and bought some meat and bread (which was really delicious) and got up to Basse at about 8 or 9pm. After a quick meeting with the GCP folk we went to bed, and woke up bright and early for our first day of monitoring.
We called in at a roadside cafe and had a breakfast of fried luncheon, salad, cold chips and bread (just what an English girl wants at 8am!) and then crossed the river over to the WASDA compound.
After a meeting there we moved about 25km up the road, further into the north bank, and visited the second groundnut growers association that WASDA have set up as part of this project. The meeting was all in Mandinka and Fula, and although I tried to follow as best I could, most of it was lost on me. Of course, a meeting isn't a meeting without a bit of singing and dancing, and before the end the women were playing drums, and attendees were singing and dancing in the centre of the room!
Once finished, we jumped back in the car (around 1.30pm) to drive to Kaur where our next meeting was scheduled. We were driving the north bank road - a place I had never been, and a place it seems not many people ever go. It is really in the middle of nowhere and the road is unmade, a dust bowl of dry arid land, with a few villages scattered here and there. The isolation must be incredible... we bumped down the road for 2.5 hrs (94km!) and the only traffic we saw coming in the other direction was one car, one bus, one lorry and one motorbike. The children, who normally shout 'toubab' as soon as they see me could just about manage to stare open mouthed in surprise, and I came to realise they were as much startled by the pickup truck as they were by the toubab. It was sooooo quiet! And the poverty very stark. It must be an incredibly hard life in that part of the country.
Needless to say, after 2.5hrs of bumping down a dirt track we were pretty hot and dusty by the time we reached Kaur (late as the drive had been longer than anyone anticipated). But we held a short meeting with the project group (in Wolof and Mandinka) and then pushed on to Farafenni to spend the night.
We reached there around 7pm and went for dinner at around 8pm, at this point having eaten nothing since the spam and bread in the morning, and my meat and bread at lunch time the day before. We found a roadside food vendor and bought... some meat and bread.
The next morning we travelled to Njawara and had out third partner meeting at the Njawara Agricultural Training Centre. This meeting was in Wolof, so while not being exactly fluent I at least managed to get more of the gist than the Mandinka meetings. Although my Mandinka greetings are getting better as a result of my up-country ventures!
Once done at NATC (this time the meeting ended with a nice stroll around the gardens rather than singing and dancing) Abdoulie and I left Ba Sarjo to sleep at Njawara while we bundled off to sleep at his village. I have been there before, for lunch, but it was nice to spend a bit more time there and relax. I was treated to a delicious domoda, we greeted a few people and made some house calls, Abdoulie and I did some work and then I had an early night, fully exhausted and devoid of all language skills, barely managing to mumble my greetings in any language by this point.
In the morning we were up early to drive back to Kerewan to do an APR with the Kerewan Area Council (after more churra gerte with sour milk). We had tried to organise a 9.30 start but of course the meeting started around 11.30, after breakfast and greetings and me having a little chat with someone in French (too many languages!). The APR went well, but throughout the session I realised I was coming out in more and more raised bumpy welts. I knew that the mosquitoes had been virtually non existent, but I had slept for three nights in a row without a bed net so I thought that something must have got me...
We finished at about 4.30pm and started the long drive home, calling in at different villages to greet people and drop people off along the way. By the time I reached my house it was 10.30pm and I was feeling itchy and irritable... only to discover the next morning that the bites were bed bug bites, and I was covered in head to toe. Literally. Down my earlobes, the ends of my toes, all over my hands, back, arms, legs - everywhere. A delightful end to what was actually quite an interesting, if not exhausting trip!
I rested over the weekend and then on the Monday we had the final monitoring meeting at NAWFA here in the Kombos. The results of the visit will tie in with a mid-term review that we are currently writing, which should help us make sure that the programme is on track.
We travelled on Tuesday afternoon and called in at Brikama to see Abdoulie's wife. After a few mouthfuls of churra gerte with sour milk (a kind of peanut rice pudding, which we had with a kind of yoghurt on top) we were on our way. We stopped in Soma and bought some meat and bread (which was really delicious) and got up to Basse at about 8 or 9pm. After a quick meeting with the GCP folk we went to bed, and woke up bright and early for our first day of monitoring.
We called in at a roadside cafe and had a breakfast of fried luncheon, salad, cold chips and bread (just what an English girl wants at 8am!) and then crossed the river over to the WASDA compound.
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| Carefully balanced motorbikes |
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| WASDA meeting |
After a meeting there we moved about 25km up the road, further into the north bank, and visited the second groundnut growers association that WASDA have set up as part of this project. The meeting was all in Mandinka and Fula, and although I tried to follow as best I could, most of it was lost on me. Of course, a meeting isn't a meeting without a bit of singing and dancing, and before the end the women were playing drums, and attendees were singing and dancing in the centre of the room!
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| Wuli Groundnut Growers Association |
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| Impromptu singing and dancing |
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| My 'what on earth is going on' face |
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| Our road... for 94km. And this was a smooth part. |
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| Project director gives out some 'minty' |
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| And soon draws a crowd |
Needless to say, after 2.5hrs of bumping down a dirt track we were pretty hot and dusty by the time we reached Kaur (late as the drive had been longer than anyone anticipated). But we held a short meeting with the project group (in Wolof and Mandinka) and then pushed on to Farafenni to spend the night.
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| Meeting under the mango tree |
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| AVISU - Agency for Village Support |
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| Our guest house in Farafenni. Looks lovely but I suspect this is where I was bitten. |
Once done at NATC (this time the meeting ended with a nice stroll around the gardens rather than singing and dancing) Abdoulie and I left Ba Sarjo to sleep at Njawara while we bundled off to sleep at his village. I have been there before, for lunch, but it was nice to spend a bit more time there and relax. I was treated to a delicious domoda, we greeted a few people and made some house calls, Abdoulie and I did some work and then I had an early night, fully exhausted and devoid of all language skills, barely managing to mumble my greetings in any language by this point.
In the morning we were up early to drive back to Kerewan to do an APR with the Kerewan Area Council (after more churra gerte with sour milk). We had tried to organise a 9.30 start but of course the meeting started around 11.30, after breakfast and greetings and me having a little chat with someone in French (too many languages!). The APR went well, but throughout the session I realised I was coming out in more and more raised bumpy welts. I knew that the mosquitoes had been virtually non existent, but I had slept for three nights in a row without a bed net so I thought that something must have got me...
We finished at about 4.30pm and started the long drive home, calling in at different villages to greet people and drop people off along the way. By the time I reached my house it was 10.30pm and I was feeling itchy and irritable... only to discover the next morning that the bites were bed bug bites, and I was covered in head to toe. Literally. Down my earlobes, the ends of my toes, all over my hands, back, arms, legs - everywhere. A delightful end to what was actually quite an interesting, if not exhausting trip!
I rested over the weekend and then on the Monday we had the final monitoring meeting at NAWFA here in the Kombos. The results of the visit will tie in with a mid-term review that we are currently writing, which should help us make sure that the programme is on track.
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| NaWFA - National Women's Farming Association |
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| The obligatory group photo! |
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