Tuesday, 3 June 2014

Bits and bobs (and muscles!)

New walking route
Feeling the need to shake off the sedentary few days of the Training of Trainers workshop, I took a walk on Friday afternoon with Ellie. We walked from Fajara to Cape Point, a route I hadn't done in full before as it depends entirely on the tide. Most of the time the route is inaccessible, but at low tide you can get round - with a bit of scrambling over rocks in parts. It was an interesting walk, past some nice rock formations and quiet coves, and it was a relief to feel the cool sea breeze. 





Once at Cape Point we called into a bar for a soft drink, bumping into some people we knew, and had a tonic while watching kingfishers and crocodiles gliding about in a marshy pool by the beach. 



From there we walked back to Bakau, picked up some fish from the market and went back to Ellie's where she cooked a delicious fish laksa. 

Gambian pop
Last Saturday I went to Safari Garden for internet and a nice swim. While we managed to get internet, the swimming part didn't happen as a local singer had taken over the pool for the day to shoot a music video! Despite missing a swim it was interesting to watch the girls (and boys!) having their makeup done, and the star of the video dancing about the pool and lip-syncing to his song. The song itself was hilarious - the chorus "Man dama buga, dama buga Gambia" (Me I like, I like the Gambia!) was surprisingly catchy, but the lyrics - praising the President, the education system, the security of the country, the joy of tapalapa and senfour bread, and his love of benachin were especially funny! 


Make up being done

Girls in position! 

The man himself,
bringing back the one glove look!


A Peter Andre moment
The weather
The climate has really changed, as they say here. Since I came back from trek the humidity and temperature has been rising, but any rain has been at night. This all changed yesterday evening when, cycling home, I saw the sky turn black and felt the wind start to howl. Cycling as fast as I could to get home before the downpour I was nearly blown off my bike and felt a bit like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz! Making it home just in time (although still a bit wet and grubby where I had been hit by big fat sand-filled rain drops) the skies opened and the first real torrential rain came down. The streets ran like rivers, the children danced, and the gutters poured their filth. Witnessing the power of the rain after so many months of sunshine felt oddly emotional. 




Friday, 30 May 2014

Training of Trainers take two

On Sunday Abdoulie, Johnson, Aloysius and I - driven by Ba Sarjo - left the cool Kombos for sultry Soma. There we met Godfrey, Eliazer, Jane and Mwelu and, as a team, settled in to train 22 extension workers on groundnut production, farmer field school techniques, and monitoring and evaluation. 



The centre was really quite nice - a lot more comfortable than our last Training of Trainers venue. I shared a little house with Jane, with a private bathroom and efficient shower - a luxury compared to last year's shared toilet and bucket bath system. 

My room

Our little house
We were much better prepared this time round; we had met before hand and agreed who would train on what, and prepared the timetable as a group, which reduced some of the stress and anxiety that had been displayed by some of the volunteers at the previous training session. Each presenter developed a powerpoint presentation ahead of the training and delivered their modules with confidence. 


The conference room
On the first morning (Monday) I was asked to chair the opening ceremony, and I held a session in the afternoon to collect some information for baselines and indicators. I was then free until Wednesday but spent the time helping to coordinate trainers and participants, slipping outside occasionally for a delicious mango! They were so plentiful and delicious it was hard to stick to the one a day rule! 


Chairing the opening ceremony








It was so hot in Soma compared to the still cool Kombos, so we started early and scheduled the afternoon sessions to finish shortly after lunch. This meant the evenings were our own to wander around or lie down and escape the heat in whatever way we could. On Wednesday it was 44 degrees, and night time temperatures remained high - usually 36 degrees until at least 10pm and not dropping that much lower through the night. Electricity was only available (apart from in the training room) between 8pm and 1am so sleeping at night after 1am without a fan was challenging! Thankfully the place was mosquito free so I was able to sleep without a bed net and feel the slight breeze coming through the window.


An evening walk to the river
The place was surrounded by goats (including two very new ones that were born while we were there) sheep, cows, and lots and lots of children. I was mobbed on several occasions for pictures, and everywhere I went heard shouts of 'Toubab Toubab'. Being the only white woman in the whole training camp and village I was fairly easy to spot and rarely able to hide from the children's attention! 



New kids...

Crazy kids!


So, now that the Training of Trainers has been completed, our team of extension workers and lead farmers will head out to hold farmer field schools on improved groundnut techniques. Hopefully this will improve the quality and quantity of groundnuts grown in The Gambia, and raise income levels for some of the poorest farmers. 

Monday, 19 May 2014

Tree house fun

Nicola's brother James is here for a three week holiday, so we used the opportunity to have a little break in Kartong. Even though we only went overnight it was so nice to get out of Kombos that it felt like a week away! 

We were thinking of getting public transport, but with quite a few changes it would be a long journey and the costs would add up to as much as hiring a friend to drive us there. So Nicola, James, Lamin, Abdou and I piled into Bobby's car and set off on Friday lunchtime. 

Of course, an African journey just isn't authentic without a blow out so we didn't get there quite as soon as we expected. 


The result of someone leaving some twisted
metal at the side of the road.
Thankfully, if a tyre is going to burst anywhere, pulling out of a garage is a pretty good place for it to happen! 


A lucky location for a car problem!
Mechanics rushed over to help, and the car was soon wedged with bricks and rocks while the faulty tyre came off. 


Abdou and a handy mechanic
Bobby had a spare but it was looking a bit flat, so he and Abdou flagged down a taxi to have it pumped somewhere else, while Nic, James and I chatted to some children as they climbed trees to collect mangoes. The whole thing started taking a while, so after some negotiations we bundled into a van to go the last leg of the journey - reaching Kartong in about ten minutes. We were so close, yet so far! 

Once at Boboi Beach Lodge we found our tree houses, which was very exciting, and then bundled down to the beach for some swimming and sunbathing. 


My room for the night


Nic and Abdou
James and Lamin, long lost brothers
Once it cooled down a bit, Nicola and I went for a run (Couch to 5k week 4, run 3/3) and ran almost to Gunjur, roughly around where we had the flat tyre.


A great spot for a run!
In the evening we relaxed in the bar area, chatting while James learned Wolof at an impressive rate, and had a fairly early night. The tree houses were great, like camping out in the open, lulled by the sound of the sea. At 4am it started to get a bit windy and I discovered that my house swayed in the wind which was a bit disconcerting but all part of the adventure! I was a bit worried as I have been sleep walking lately, but thankfully I stayed put!

After a breakfast of tea, coffee, bread, jam, and grapefruit and papaya Nicola and I felt inspired to do another run in the opposite direction - towards Casamance (Senegal). So this was C25k week 4 run 3/3+1! Unlike the previous day, the sand was a lot softer, the sun a lot hotter, and the run was hard work... but it felt like a good achievement. We had a nice reward of jumping in the sea when it was over. 


A picturesque breakfast
Jane and Esme came down so we spent the afternoon relaxing with them, chatting with Jane and playing in the sea with Esme which was a lot of fun, and headed home with a lot less fuss than the journey there! 



Tuesday, 13 May 2014

Overdue catch up

It feels like a lot of time has passed since my last blog, so I thought I'd do a general catch up post.

Work
Work has been busy and quiet, stop start, fast and slow, but about to build into a busy period. Next week we are running another group training session on Farmer Field School techniques, groundnut growing techniques, and monitoring and evaluation at field level. That'll be my bit, so I'm preparing this week and trying to work out what to focus my session on.

Leavers workshop
At the beginning of May we had our leavers workshop, signifying the beginning of the end of my VSO volunteer experience at this time. The workshop was to prepare us for our return home or onward journey. We watched a video which made me laugh - filmed somewhere around 2002 it seemed amazingly dated. One of the tips was to save your work to a computer disk so that you could print examples to show employers when you got home. It reminded me of saving my dissertation onto a floppy disk! The past volunteers also talked of how difficult it was to reintegrate back into their old lives, after not seeing or speaking to friends and family for so long. Powered by Skype and email and Facebook I think I speak more to my friends and family now than I did when I lived a busy life in London! But, despite the dated references triggering memories of life before file sharing, cloud storage and social media, the video was a timely reminder that the next four months will flash past, and I really need to sort out my next move.

Food
I can't blog without mentioning food! The season has been good and I'm enjoying some of the vegetables that I missed so much at the end of the rainy season. Red peppers have been a particular treat over the last few weeks. I managed to get my hands on some more beetroot and made a nice beetroot soup with flat breads the other week. And mango season is coming, slowly but surely. I've had two so far but I'm hoping to buy some in bulk when I go up country next week. I also finally opened a box of chocolates this week that Alex sent to me at Christmas. Keeping them for this long took a lot of willpower, and you can see the look of happiness on my face to open them! I have also had some special celebratory meals in the last month too, the champagne that I had saved since August was divine! Thanks Lucy and Rob!





Exercise
Nicola and I have been trying to get back into regular exercise for months. Time after work, darkness and heat have been the typical deterrents but lately we've really gotten our act together! Starting from a pretty low position we decided to do the couch to 5k challenge to get us back into it with a bit of structure. We're now half way through week 4 and really enjoying it. Regular exercise (more than just walking and cycling to work and back) really improves my mood. We even tackled the challenge of running on sand to have a beach training session last week.


Easter
Easter was a nice weekend. Nicola, Abdou and I met her boss for a lovely benachin and drinks, and the rest of the weekend was very relaxing. A nice long break after working so hard on the Annual Country Report.



Tailoring
And finally, as mentioned a few posts back, my wardrobe was looking rather washed out, faded and bleached so I picked up some material from Serrakunda market. The result was three new dresses, and I was really pleased with the results! 


Thursday, 10 April 2014

Mid-term review partner meeting

The main project that I work on here is 'Improving Agricultural Growers’ Associations in The Gambia' - a World Bank funded programme which is run through The Gambia Growth and Competitiveness Project. I posted back in February about the monitoring visit that I went on with the project Directors, and since then we have produced a trek report and a mid-term review report. These have been passed backwards and forwards between the Programme Office and the GCP team, until this week when it was time to present them to the partners and the volunteers involved in the project to get their feedback and input, and start to validate the reports. 

We met at a hotel on Cape Point, a pleasant 20 minute walk from my house. I put my headphones on and off I went, arriving at around 9am for breakfast (pizza and fish goujons - don't ask!) and a cup of coffee. 



Samba hard at work
Listening intently!
The meeting got under way around about the designated start time, a miracle in itself, and an hour before lunch / prayers I came to realise that the Programme Managers were rapidly running out of things to say. The questions from the participants had slowed, and we needed a filler. 

So I volunteered to do an impromptu presentation. 


Serious face!
Some follow up words about Monitoring and Evaluation
from the Country Director
I had been working on a quick reference guide about monitoring and evaluation for the partners, so I took the opportunity to show it to them and see if it met their needs. I wanted something that people could use as a resource, as I am very aware of the fact that there is only one of me and many of them, and I don't have much opportunity to work with them all individually. I put together the guide, and some document templates to go with it, in the hope that it would build partner capacity, and in turn they could do more monitoring and evaluation with the project beneficiaries. 

This is something that is very much needed. Because a lot of our work is about capacity building and knowledge transfer we need to be able to measure and monitor the extent to which we are building knowledge and passing information on to the stakeholders we are working with at grassroots level. To measure impact we have to consider, every time we do something with stakeholders, ‘how can we see if this is having an effect?’. For example, if conducting a training session on modern agricultural methods we need to design easy methods to assess knowledge at the beginning of the training, knowledge at the end of the training, and then – in order to really assess impact – methods to see how that knowledge has been used or implemented after an agreed period of time. While I can't develop templates and guidance for every monitoring need, I wanted to be able to help the partners to be able to do this for themselves. 
First page of the reference guide
The guide went down well. I received some good feedback about a couple of other areas the partners would like information on, and was reassured that it would be very helpful. 

It was very hard to go back to the meeting after lunch. Not only was I full of delicious food, it was hot and the pool looked so inviting! 
Donuts with a twist

Wednesday, 9 April 2014

Women's Work

It is often quoted that women do two thirds of the world’s work, and that seems to be true in The Gambia. It seems like the women are constantly working; sweeping, cooking, ironing, farming (often providing food for the entire family from small patches of land which have been allocated to them by men – typically the worst pieces of land far from their homes – but that’s another story), tending to the children, selling on the roadside or in markets, taking up formal employment... The list is endless.  Without wishing to generalise, it’s hard to shake the feeling that while these women are working themselves to the bone, many of the men aren’t doing much at all except maybe sitting under the shade of a tree drinking tea. (This is couched as ‘making important decisions’ or ‘having important discussions’.) Don’t get me wrong, some men are very hard working, just as I am sure some women are quite lazy, but one certainly gets a sense that it is the female of the species that is pulling the bulk of the weight in this country.

So I found it particularly refreshing to meet with a group of students, lecturers and managers from Gambia Technical Training Institute (GTTI) last week – males and females – who are all working hard to improve their positions and support those around them.


Samba, Ebou and I ran two focus groups with the hope of hearing some juicy stories to give texture to our Annual Country Review due for submission later this month. VSO have been working with GTTI as part of the Education and TVET programme – looking at how to encourage men and women into technical and vocational education to provide some of the skills and opportunities needed to be economically independent. At GTTI, VSO have supported a pilot HND programme in mechanical engineering, which not only provides higher education opportunities for young people, but upgrades the technical knowledge of the GTTI lecturers who are also taking the qualification. It is hoped that the lecturers will go on to provide better classes to students for years to come, boosting the technical expertise within the country.

While doing the focus groups I was struck by two things. Firstly, when I say they were all ‘working hard’, I was surprised by the number of people holding down demanding paid jobs as well as studying. Many were teachers in senior secondary schools, or engineers at the electricity company or the brewery. While some were doing the HND to improve their own positions and chances of promotion, many were doing it to inspire others and to be able to pass on better skills – not just those who were already lecturers at GTTI, but those who were teachers or team leaders who wanted to pass on their new knowledge to those they work with. And yet, despite this commitment to learning and improvement, nearly all of them mentioned the negative perceptions that trade people or skilled technical workers face – citing that they were seen as stupid or uneducated because they chose to work in engineering, dressed in overalls rather than ‘sharp suits and office clothes’.

Secondly, I was interested to hear how the women taking the course are perceived as a result of their interest in mechanical engineering. Nearly all of the female participants said their communities and families were surprised by their choice, and some of them were actively dissuaded from doing the subject. They were criticised for how they dressed to come to work, and presumably for not taking more feminine roles.

So, in a country where gender roles are quite defined, why did they choose to take a career path that is considered to be for men? Some of the women said they chose a technical subject area because it gave them a better opportunity to be self-employed. One participant explained;

‘When I was at Senior Secondary School I didn’t see women doing technical work. At first I wanted to be a banker but I decided to do technical work because it would allow me to become self-employed if I couldn’t find paid employment. I thought this would give me a better chance for my future. People used to stare at me when I worked in the garage and I used to feel ashamed, but now I get support and I have more confidence.’

Other participants said that they chose the subject because they wanted to be a role model for future generations of young women, and already they had seen changes. For example, one lady – as well as doing the HND in mechanical engineering – teaches technical drawing and metal work at a senior secondary school. Since she started the class she has seen an increase in the number of female students taking metal work. She has been encouraging girls to take up practical skills as well as academic study, and said, ‘I like the fact that I know academic theory and have practical experience as well.’ A joke was made that if the air conditioner in the room broke down not only would she understand why, but she would be able to fix it.

The whole group were passionate and articulate when explaining their motivations for pursuing the HND, and while I wholeheartedly support those who are doing it to advance their careers, I’m particularly impressed by those who are actively trying to inspire others – despite the negative attitudes faced by males and females alike – especially those who are trying to encourage more women into technical subjects. By the end of the session I think Ebou, Samba and I were all tempted to sign up for an HND in mechanical engineering!  

Happy participants